So we proceed from the urban to the rural. Alleppey is a small town about two hours outside of Ernakulam, mostly used as a base for the backwaters cruises. We stayed in a homestay rather than a hotel, well back from the streets and surrounded by coconut trees. Bliss. We expected to do a bit of exploring but Marie woke up feeling under the weather due to the air conditioning – so we spent the day relaxing on the veranda and didn’t go anywhere. What we did see of the town wasn’t anything to write home about, so I won’t. The next day the four of us went on an overnight houseboat cruise of the backwaters which is probably the most relaxing thing anyone can do. I’ve attached pictures of some to the things we saw. We parked the boat at sundown and – at a loss for something to do – played cards.

Next was a long drive to Thiruvananthapuram, mostly referred to by its old name Trivandrum for obvious reasons. We were booked into a place called the Beach and Lake and, judging from their dire website, we did not have high hopes. As I type we’re sitting on the balcony – on our own island which we have to access by longboat – looking over a small private beach area, onto the roaring sea on the left hand side and the quiet Kerala backwaters on the right. It’s glorious, pity we only have two nights here.

EDIT: In retrospect this is all a bit sunny. In Allepey we were awoken every morning at 5:30am by the Imam calling Muslims to prayer, and then again at 8:30am by the very loud bell in the Hindu temple beside us. They have had no hot water anywhere since we left the city, and the water they do have is a miserable trickle. Dinner tonight was terrible – we went to an Anglo-Indian place against our better judgement. Would love a good cup of tea and a packet of King Crisps.